My favorite aspect of this trip is visiting American military cemeteries. Arlington National Cemetery is probably my favorite place in the United States, and taking my students there is easily the highlight of every school year. Wood National Cemetery near Miller Park is a place I try to visit at least once a year, usually around Memorial Day. But seeing the final resting places of American service men and women in a foreign country is a whole different experience. I was able to visit the Normady American Cemetery a few years ago on another awesome historical trip, and it was unforgettable. I was struck by the view, the symbolism of the many memorials, and the exquisite care given to the grounds. I remember seeing a statement in which United States didn’t ask for anything for it’s assistance to liberate Europe, save some ground where they could bury their dead and honor their service. Families chose to lay their loved ones to rest in a land far far away, but a land that those loved ones died to liberate from outside aggressors. There's true poetry in that. The American Battle Monuments Commission, in cooperation with the government of France, established seven American cemeteries for those that perished in World War I. It’s an incredible stroke of fortune and luck – but I was able to visit all of them over the last week. Each cemetery holds hundreds to thousands of stories, but overall there is a common story – one of valor, sacrifice, and honor. I came to Belgium and France to learn, but more importantly, to honor – it may sound clichéd, but it is the wholehearted truth. My visits to these hallowed grounds compounded these feelings. Walking along the beautiful grounds, seeing the various memorials and markers, and most importantly looking over the ocean of granite white crosses standing silently on the green grass makes those visits powerful, sorrowful, and thankful – in a word, emotional. Over 50,000 Americans perished in battle on the Western Front during and after the war, half a world from home. Their bodies were interred in temporary sites - 2,400 locations strewn across the front. In a move that cemented their friendship begun in the war (and harkening back to the American Revolution), the French and American governments working together to create final resting places worthy of the sacrifice of American soldiers and supply personnel. The sites are all incredible in topography and location, with most having an essential geographic component linked to the American World War I experience. Since the opening of the cemeteries in the 1930s, the only changes have been due to nature. Trees have grown, and flowers have changed, but the number of bodies in each location remains the same. These are not just cemeteries – these are timeless emotional experiences. And as General Pershing said, time will not diminish their glory of their deeds. Instead of multiple posts about each cemetery, I felt it was more important and effective to bring many of them together into a larger overview. While each has its own special features, they all have many common characteristics. Receptions rooms, exquisitely manicured grounds, beautiful flowers, chapels for the missing, and ABMC officials that are dedicated to educating visitors and venerating the soldiers. The perpetually honor the men and women that came “Over There” to play an essential role in the Allied effort in the Great War. The Somme American Cemetery – After a long day of touring and driving, approaching the American flag on the horizon was a memorable sight. It was a beautiful afternoon, but I was the only visitor at the cemetery – in fact there had only been three entries registered that day in the visitor’s logbook. I unfortunately didn't get to see the chapel since it was near closing, but the visit was a poignant finish to a great day. The Meuse Argonne American Cemetery – With over 14,000 headstones, this massive burial ground is the largest American military cemetery in all of Europe. The incredible view from both the visitor center and the chapel are sights of beauty. The visitors center has a great interpretive center, telling the story of the AEF in the Meuse Argonne area. Similar to the brother cemeteries, the beautiful chapel and memorial honor the names of the soldiers whose bodies have never been found. The most important moment of the visit was seeing the grave of Howard Gormley, a student at the German English Academy and only person from my school to perish in Europe in WWI. I came to France with to goal of reaching his cross to not only honor him, but to bring this service and the war home to my students – and me. The St. Mihiel American Cemetery – Perched on swell by the small town of Thiacourt, the St. Mihiel American cemetery follows the traditional layout of military cemeteries – four major plots with a focal point and a chapel. In the center of the cemetery, a powerful eagle stands on a pedestal, also serving as a sundial. Besides the rows of crosses, the doughboy statue is the most powerful component (in my perspective), He stands silent, helmet in hand, looking over his fallen brothers. The chapel has a central urn emblazoned with Pegasus, bringing the soldiers up to the heavens. The beautiful chapel honors those that men that were never found, and the map room area helps tell the story of the AEF and French pushing the Germans out of the salient. Both rooms have doughboy handles to open the doors – a beautiful touch to the design. The Oise Aisne American Cemetery – Located in the expansive countryside east of Chateau Thierry, the Oise Aisne cemetery is the final home of over 6,000 American soldiers that gave their lives to liberate the area from German control. A soaring flag pole serves as the hub for four plots of crosses. An arced memorial dominates the heights, with a small map room and museum to one side and chapel for the missing to the other. In the center, a lone sarcophagus stands prominent and silent – both glorious and sorrowful. In no way am I trying to lump them all together in one conglomerate – that would diminish the importance and beauty of each. Each is a special place beyond what a blog post can convey. Pictures can’t do enough, and video can only give a small sense of what it is like to walk these grounds. Americans rarely visit the American military cemeteries, which is completely understandable based on their location – but I do hope that any American coming to France takes the opportunity to experience a cemetery to our military forces that served in the great war. It’s not a visit or a tour – it’s a true experience, walking in a timeless place so far from home – yet so close to home. These cemeteries combine to be the true pilgrimage of my trip, and I truly feel I'm a better teacher and person for it.
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