In my seven days examining American in WWI in Belgium and France, I took a few pictures ... well, over 1,000 pictures ... to remember the amazing sites/sights that I experienced. I gave the newfangled world of 360° photography a try, shooting some stills and videos for use in my class and just to bring back the feeling of being at these amazing places. The video is collected in my Over There YouTube channel and also on one page, and I am loading up some of the images to RoundMe, my fave 360° site. While the images and video don't offer the complete beauty of these sites... it's as close as I can get halfway across the globe. Hopefully someone else can use these as well!
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I read and researched all about the AEF in World War I, one of the fun topics (for me) was the nicknames of the various divisions of the American forces. Living in Milwaukee, I've always been aware of the Red Arrow division, as we have Red Arrow Park (with skating and Starbucks) in downtown and the Red Arrow Highway that takes drivers along Lake Michigan and then to the north. However, I didn't know that the Red Arrow name came from World War I, when the 32nd division became the first to pierce through the Hindenburg Line. They have been the Red Arrow Division ever since (and how cool is this - the Red Arrow Highway is state highway 32). The nicknames of these divisions says a lot about both of the make up of the troops and their service in the war. Plus, checking out the insignias of each of the divisions is pretty cool as well. It's kind of like figuring out sports mascots, connecting a nickname to a group, location, and history. I saw the divisions represented multiple times in my travels. Here are some of the division nicknames from WWI and the meanings behind them:
The Big Red One - Named for their iconic shoulder patch, the 1st Divison was, in fact, the first divison to enter France. The 16th Infantry marched through Paris (as I attempted) on July 4, 1917, and the division served throughout the war. The Indian Head Divison - Also named for their patch, the 2nd Division served in multiple offensives in 1918, especially at Belleau Wood and Chateau Thierry. The Rock of the Marne - Due to the bravery and vigor of its members at the Aisne-Marne Offensive in 1918, the 3rd Division will always carry their sobriquet for their steadfast defense of the line to Paris. The Lafayette Divison - These National Guard members from Wisconsin and Michigan were originaly the 11th Divison and were named for the great French volunteer in the American Revolution, They later became the 32nd. The Yankee Divison - Hailing from New England (predominately Massachusetts), these doughboys in the 26th fought extensively in multiple locations in France. Their memorial chapel in Belleau Wood was one of my favorite stops on my journey. The New York Divison and the Keystone Division - Hailing from New York and Pennsylvania, the 27th and 28th Divisions were a major force in the AEF in France. Les Terribles - Not only was the 32nd Division know as the Red Arrow, but a French commander gave them the name "Les Terribles" for their ferocity in clearing out German troops on the Western Front. The Rainbow Division - The 42nd earned their name from Douglas MacArthur. Since the division drew members from states across the nation, MacArthur offered that the division would "spread over the whole country like a rainbow". The best part about being an American studies teacher is working with an incredible partner/promance. Laurie Walczak and I approach WWI side by side, and one of the most engaging ways is through the poetry of the Great War. The war inspired countless works describing the life of a solider, the horror or combat, the honor of the warrior, and the sorrow of loss. Frequently on my trip, poetry became a powerful way to comprehend what happened on the fields of Belgium and France, especially when poems were posted in many of the place I visited. Of course, In Flanders Fields tops the list. Poppies are everywhere in WWI imagery and locations, and John McRae’s work was presented at no less than five sites – most notably the Flanders Field American Cemetery. I remember first hearing the poem in an old Charlie Brown cartoon titled "What Have We Learned?" Good question, Linus. The horrors of combat and chemical warfare are featured in Dulce Et Decorum Est, a classic from Wilfred Owen and an important phrase engraved prominently above the entrance to the Memorial Amphitheater at Arlington National Cemetery (I point it out every year). The imagery of the work brings the challenges of the tenches to life. Every time I saw trenches, I harken back to Break of Day in the Trenches by Isaac Rosenberg, an British poet who died in battle near Arras near the end of the war. His “queer sardonic rat”, “the sleeping green between”, “the torn fields of France”, and “poppies whose roots are in man’s veins” are all emotional gut punches when you are actually there. American poet Alan Seeger’s I Have a Rendezvous With Death was posted at the Sommepy Monument and sets the stage for everyone who visits. Seeger served in the French Foreign Legion and died in the vicious Battle of the Somme in 1916, although not associated with the purpose of the monument. I alos like to use Carl Sandburg's A.E.F for insight into the memory of the veterans, returned home and then forgotten. Of all of the canon of poems, may favorite has been (and I think will always be) Joyce Kilmer’s Memorial Day. Kilmer volunteered to fight in France as a member of the New York infantry. Known more for his poem about a tree, Kilmer’s Memorial Day is a bit prophetic. It was first published in 1914, three years before he enlisted. Becoming a Sergeant, Kilmer fell in battle in July of 1918, and is now buried in the Oise Ainse American Cemetery. Standing by his cross proved to be a moving experience, especially as I read his words:
Fitting words of how war is so awful, but those that served and perished should be honored. Laurie has our students write WWI poems every year, and many often include poems as part of their “Legacy of WWI” products as a final assessment for their WWI study. Kids like reading them, like writing them, and love sharing them.
I started at Hotel Invalides, which was built as a hospital for French soldiers and has since been turned into a set or museums and the tomb of Napoleon Bonaparte. The AEF stood through long speeches in full uniform tobegin their ceremony that July day 100 years ago. I chose to spent a few hours touring the Museum of the Armed Forces, which has military artifacts from the stone ages to the 20th century. The collection or armor was very cool – Game of Thrones stuff – and I loved the WWI and WWII exhibits as they showed the war from a French perspective. The highlight of the Invalides was definitely the tomb of Napoleon. It’s located in a historic chapel, centered under an amazing dome. It’s surrounded by reliefs glorifying his rule (he did have a high opinion of himself, of course), and my favorites were the two telling the story of his body being exhumed from St. Helena and returned to Paris. Marshall Ferdinand Foch is also entombed in the Dome Chapel in a beautiful and heroic sarcophagus.
After grabbing an ice cream sandwich, I set out for my own journey through the streets (actually sidewalks) of down town Paris. As you can see from the different sets of pictures, my march had a few different environmental aspects to it. (1917 pics and captions from www.16thinfassn.org,)
The final location was the key to my march – the Picpus Cemetery. The AEF ended there with another ceremony at the grave of the Marquis de Lafayette, a strong symbolic connection between the US and France. The ceremony featured General George Pershing speaking but the most famous quote was uttered by Colonel Charles Stanton – “Nous voir, Lafayette”, or “Lafayette, we are here!” Francine told me that the cemetery is difficult to find, but I am part bloodhound and very adept at using street maps. However, this time my sniffer let me down I followed the route and made my way to Boulevard de Picpus, certain to be final destination. I didn’t find it, and it was after 5:00 (I knew the cemetery closed at 6), so I did what you should do – ask for directions in a gas station. A gentleman overheard me, told me to follow him while he asked his wife about the location of the cemetery. The had me hop in the back and drove me to the site (after he made a few wrong turns, which is on Rue de Picpus – my bad. I may have eventually found the site, but possibly not by 6:00, so Channeau and Patrick were historical life savers. There was a little bit of divine intervention – me heading to a site that demonstrates the friendship and mutual assistance of France and the US, and I wouldn’t have made it without my historical friends. It makes for a great story – and it’s true. As I stood at Lafayette’s grave, I realized I was closing the books on a long, exhausting march – not just that day, but for seven days across France. It was definitely bittersweet, knowing by WWIpalooza was at its end – but seeing the American flag over his grave and placing a beneath the phrase “Requiescat en pace” made it a fitting ending for my week in Belgium and France. Unlike the previous cemeteries I visited, Suresnes American Military Cemetery is located in the hustle and bustle of a busy suburb just outside of Paris. Perched in the middle of a hill, the location offers a beautiful view of downtown Paris, and you can see the Eifel Tower from the steps of the chapel and memorial. The vista is impressive, but quite different than the others, which feel private and secluded on spots where American men fought and died. At first, I felt that the site of Suresnes would detract for its impact, but within five minutes of touring the grounds, the noise and commotion of the street below disappeared. These places have a way of shutting out everything extraneous. Similar to other cemeteries, the chapel dominates the site. A marble sarcophagus, emblazoned with the phrase “I give unto them eternal life, and they shall never perish”, stands stoically in front of a large mosaic of “The Angel of Victory”. Names of men missing from the war at sea cover the walls. On either side of the chapel, memorial wings were added – one for the Great War, and one for World War II. Each has a relief dedicated to the soldiers of the respective war and a lone statue at the end – “Remembrance” for WWI and “Memory” for WWII. There’s another difference – Suresnes has 24 unknowns from WWII resting in a cross formation. The ABMC brochure for the site gives more detail. I originally thought that the cemetery was the newest one, but it is actually the oldest. There were 2400 temporary cemeteries strewn across the Western front and Paris during and immediately after the war. Suresnes was established in 1917 to accommodate many of the Service of Supply members that perished, and also those that had died from influenza that was ravaging Europe (and the US). Of the over 1500 people buried on the grounds, there is a set of brothers, a set of sisters (a very sad tale), and a pair of cousins on the hill at Suresnes. The cemetery is the only one I saw that contains civilians, including some from other countries. I asked the ABMC on site, and she said it was a controversial decision made by the American government at the time, against the wishes of the French. One of the Americans interred is Wallace, a 3 month old infant and son of a doctor in France during the war. I’ll have to find out more details. I planned to stay at the cemetery for a half hour, but I found myself there for much longer – partly because of the beauty, partly because of the solitude, but mostly because I started to feel it would be my last visit ever to one of these hallowed lands in France, with the crosses standing like silent soldier at attention. They are special places, and should be visited by anyone – but especially Americans. Higher on the hill just north of the cemetery is Mont Valerian and a fort built in the 1800s. The fort was occupied by the German Army during WWII, and they executed many members of the French resistance there. One wall of the fort is now a huge (and very cool) monument to the French resistance. I spent some time up there, mostly because of my friend Francine’s connection to the resistance – I was there as her proxy. It’s full of symbolism and a very fitting tribute to freedom fighters in France. The ABMC noted that, due to the cemetery and the memorial, the hill has “become a symbol to the French of democracy’s struggle in the cause of freedom” and a pilgrimage site. I do hope more people see each location.
A few more monuments / memorials to share …
Overlooking the village of the same name, the Chateau Thierry Monument is another massive and picturesque monument dedicated to the American forces in the great war. I visited it on the tail end of my stop at the Aisne Marne cemetery, and it was a powerful finish to an already excellent day of touring. The monument (like most of the others) is classic in its style, and locals refer to it as the “radiator” (the pictures should explain why). We don’t make structures like these any more. The grounds weren’t as pristine since the ABMC is doing some work on the main platform, but that didn’t distract me at all – or the other people that were there to picnic or stroll on a Saturday night. The monument has a map of the area, showing the troop movements in July 1918 during the final German offensive in the Second Battle of the Marne. Besides an orientation table and dedication text, the major divisions are engraved on the side of the memorial, along with their division symbols. I love those symbols.
The Lafayette Escadrille Memorial Cemetery is the only major memorial close to the city of Paris. The structure is part of the Domaine National de Sainte-Cloud park near the town of Garches. The Lafayette Escadrille were American pilots that flew missions in various campaigns on the Western Front under the command of French officers. American men joined the French Foreign Legion well before the US declared way, and they became the first form of manned military assistance for the French – and very popular in France. The monument lists all of the Americans that perished in their air service in the Escadrille, and the crypt underneath the huge arch holds the bodies of most of the 68 men that died in the skies of France. After helping with repairs and restoration of the memorial. Reliefs of American fliers adorn the sides, and a huge mosaic of the Indian head symbol of the Escadrille is centered under the arch. The ABMC describes it as a great symbol of French and American cooperation, and I agree – both nation’s flags fly high in front of the memorial, and Lafayette’s and Washington’s profiles are opposite each other under the arch. The AMBC actually took over the memorial this year in an agreement between the US and France – just another example of a positive and powerful relationship between the two countries, strengthened by history.
Of course, I took liberties with my entrance to the memorial. I "found" a side entrance to the park (basically, I was in the wrong place) , walked an isolated path by some chickens, crossed through some woods and then ...
I like my entrance better than the fancy one.
It's really hard to describe in words my experience at the Aisne Marne American Cemetery near the beautiful village of Belleau. It happened two days ago, but it's taken some time to process my experience. I'd been looking forward to visiting the cemetery and work for quite some time, as Francine (my France/WWI/WWII muse) has said that it was one of her favorite spots. It was near the end of a long day, and I had already seen two American military cemeteries in St. Mihiel and Oise Aisne, so I figured that I would enjoy my visit, pay respect to the men very there, and bounce to the next monument. My experience turned out to be much more - in fact, it was easily be the best moment(s) of my trip.
After German troops pushed into the tiny village of Belleau in June of 1918, the small town and the woods just south were the site of horrific fighting. Allied troops, predominantly American, pushed to halt the German advance in the area. The Marine Corps valiantly fought through intense combat in the woods, which changed hands six times over the month of June. The successful efforts of the US troops stopped the final major German advance in the war. Although suffering heavy casualties, the AEF demonstrated the ability of the US troops and served as a turning point in the Great War. Walking up the incline to the cemetery, I got some chills as I knew I was again walking into a beautiful final resting place for American soldiers. This brought on a different feeling, maybe because Francine claimed that the area is haunted. As I stepped into the reception area, I said hello to the associate and asked about if the chapel was still open and if the church was available for visitation. Little did I know but I would make a new history friend, someone I feel I will keep in contact with for a very long time. His name is Constant Lebastard, and he offered me the first of many treasures that afternoon – the key to the church. I was taken aback, but quickly excepted and spent ten minutes in an amazing chapel dedicated to the relationship of the French and Americans. To be in there alone was one of those moments I will never forget - moment one.
After returning to the cemetery and handing back the key, Constant and I chatted a bit about the cemetery in the battle. I instantly felt his true passion for these hallowed places. (I found out that night that he wrote the book on the Normandy American Cemetery - seriously, he wrote the book, and everyone should get it.) Asking again about the chapel, he offered me the opportunity to take part in the flag lowering ceremony at 4:30. Every afternoon, the American flags are taken down, folded, and one is placed in the chapel. Just the offer was moment number two.
After walking the grounds a bit, I went to the flag pole and met a family that was participating in the ceremony as well. They had a granddaughter the age of my students, and I roped her into grabbing my camera taking over the filming. I will be forever grateful to Christine for this moment - moment three, but the moment I will always remember.
We headed to the beautiful chapel that overlooks the two plots of graves. Heading inside, I noted the shell hole from bombed during World War II. It was since rebuilt, but the battle scar remains. Upon entrance, I was immediately struck by the beauty of the interior. Stained glass windows on each side featured in the insignias of the divisions that served in the area. The list of the missing covered the walls as in other chapels, but Constant pointed out that a few names had a rosette marker. These were bodies that were later found, including one within the last twenty years. After identification, families were given the choice of having he men reinterred in France or repatriated to America. He said the most families sent there descendants to the US, yet he wished they knew about the beauty of the cemeteries, the immaculate care of the grounds, and the honor and respect given to the memory of the soldiers. I agree - wholeheartedly. Moment four.
A memorable aspect of the visit was creating a relationship with Constant. For his sake, it was good that the closing time was near or I would have talked to him for the entire day. I look forward to continuing the conversation about these incredibly special places, especially Aisne Marne and Belleau Wood, and peppering him with questions about the ABMC.
After the cemetery closed, I headed up to the Bois de la Brigade de Marine to see the area of intense fighting, and to visit the Belleau Wood Monument. I not only wanted to see the area, but also to make a proxy pilgrimage for a friend and Marine, Mike Brennan. The monument is one I have seen countless times on line, but visiting it in real life, in that spot ... moment five.
What does it feel like to participate in a flag ceremony at an American military cemetery, especially for a guy who loves military cemeteries, military ceremonies, and the flag? Hopefully the post expresses it to some degree, but for personal reasons, I don't know if I can ever communicate how special it was. But ... I think that's ok - they are all great moments.
My favorite aspect of this trip is visiting American military cemeteries. Arlington National Cemetery is probably my favorite place in the United States, and taking my students there is easily the highlight of every school year. Wood National Cemetery near Miller Park is a place I try to visit at least once a year, usually around Memorial Day. But seeing the final resting places of American service men and women in a foreign country is a whole different experience. I was able to visit the Normady American Cemetery a few years ago on another awesome historical trip, and it was unforgettable. I was struck by the view, the symbolism of the many memorials, and the exquisite care given to the grounds. I remember seeing a statement in which United States didn’t ask for anything for it’s assistance to liberate Europe, save some ground where they could bury their dead and honor their service. Families chose to lay their loved ones to rest in a land far far away, but a land that those loved ones died to liberate from outside aggressors. There's true poetry in that. The American Battle Monuments Commission, in cooperation with the government of France, established seven American cemeteries for those that perished in World War I. It’s an incredible stroke of fortune and luck – but I was able to visit all of them over the last week. Each cemetery holds hundreds to thousands of stories, but overall there is a common story – one of valor, sacrifice, and honor. I came to Belgium and France to learn, but more importantly, to honor – it may sound clichéd, but it is the wholehearted truth. My visits to these hallowed grounds compounded these feelings. Walking along the beautiful grounds, seeing the various memorials and markers, and most importantly looking over the ocean of granite white crosses standing silently on the green grass makes those visits powerful, sorrowful, and thankful – in a word, emotional. Over 50,000 Americans perished in battle on the Western Front during and after the war, half a world from home. Their bodies were interred in temporary sites - 2,400 locations strewn across the front. In a move that cemented their friendship begun in the war (and harkening back to the American Revolution), the French and American governments working together to create final resting places worthy of the sacrifice of American soldiers and supply personnel. The sites are all incredible in topography and location, with most having an essential geographic component linked to the American World War I experience. Since the opening of the cemeteries in the 1930s, the only changes have been due to nature. Trees have grown, and flowers have changed, but the number of bodies in each location remains the same. These are not just cemeteries – these are timeless emotional experiences. And as General Pershing said, time will not diminish their glory of their deeds. Instead of multiple posts about each cemetery, I felt it was more important and effective to bring many of them together into a larger overview. While each has its own special features, they all have many common characteristics. Receptions rooms, exquisitely manicured grounds, beautiful flowers, chapels for the missing, and ABMC officials that are dedicated to educating visitors and venerating the soldiers. The perpetually honor the men and women that came “Over There” to play an essential role in the Allied effort in the Great War. The Somme American Cemetery – After a long day of touring and driving, approaching the American flag on the horizon was a memorable sight. It was a beautiful afternoon, but I was the only visitor at the cemetery – in fact there had only been three entries registered that day in the visitor’s logbook. I unfortunately didn't get to see the chapel since it was near closing, but the visit was a poignant finish to a great day. The Meuse Argonne American Cemetery – With over 14,000 headstones, this massive burial ground is the largest American military cemetery in all of Europe. The incredible view from both the visitor center and the chapel are sights of beauty. The visitors center has a great interpretive center, telling the story of the AEF in the Meuse Argonne area. Similar to the brother cemeteries, the beautiful chapel and memorial honor the names of the soldiers whose bodies have never been found. The most important moment of the visit was seeing the grave of Howard Gormley, a student at the German English Academy and only person from my school to perish in Europe in WWI. I came to France with to goal of reaching his cross to not only honor him, but to bring this service and the war home to my students – and me. The St. Mihiel American Cemetery – Perched on swell by the small town of Thiacourt, the St. Mihiel American cemetery follows the traditional layout of military cemeteries – four major plots with a focal point and a chapel. In the center of the cemetery, a powerful eagle stands on a pedestal, also serving as a sundial. Besides the rows of crosses, the doughboy statue is the most powerful component (in my perspective), He stands silent, helmet in hand, looking over his fallen brothers. The chapel has a central urn emblazoned with Pegasus, bringing the soldiers up to the heavens. The beautiful chapel honors those that men that were never found, and the map room area helps tell the story of the AEF and French pushing the Germans out of the salient. Both rooms have doughboy handles to open the doors – a beautiful touch to the design. The Oise Aisne American Cemetery – Located in the expansive countryside east of Chateau Thierry, the Oise Aisne cemetery is the final home of over 6,000 American soldiers that gave their lives to liberate the area from German control. A soaring flag pole serves as the hub for four plots of crosses. An arced memorial dominates the heights, with a small map room and museum to one side and chapel for the missing to the other. In the center, a lone sarcophagus stands prominent and silent – both glorious and sorrowful. In no way am I trying to lump them all together in one conglomerate – that would diminish the importance and beauty of each. Each is a special place beyond what a blog post can convey. Pictures can’t do enough, and video can only give a small sense of what it is like to walk these grounds. Americans rarely visit the American military cemeteries, which is completely understandable based on their location – but I do hope that any American coming to France takes the opportunity to experience a cemetery to our military forces that served in the great war. It’s not a visit or a tour – it’s a true experience, walking in a timeless place so far from home – yet so close to home. These cemeteries combine to be the true pilgrimage of my trip, and I truly feel I'm a better teacher and person for it.
The American monument at Montsec dominates the heights of the St. Mihiel Salient and and can be seen from miles away. It's a fitting location, considering some of the 550,000 members of the AEF and their French allies fought in the area in September 1914 in a major offensive against the German army, who had controlled the area for four long years. The success of the Allied troops in the salient helped push Germany back and led to the greater Meuse Argonne offensive the following month. Seeing the monument on the drive in was inspiring, but hitting the heights of Butte Montsec was awe inspiring (I know I am using up the thesaurus words in describing these monuments, but there's no other way to do it). My visit to the monument was perfect, in part because of the timing - I was the only person there, early in the morning, and the solitude was magnificent. The interior contains a relief map of the salient. From the heights of the butte, the map points out the local villes and the location of the front during the conflict. From this view, it's helps tell the story of the conflict in the area and demonstrates just how massive the battlefields were in World War I. While Cantigny was small, the St. Mihiel Salient (and the Meuse Argonne) was enormous. After my period of solitude, the on site supervisor arrived, and my visit was even better. I needed some questions answered and, honestly, some conversation about what I have seen and experienced. Florence Lamousse is fantastic - a French national, and someone that appreciates and loves the role of the AEF in the region. She talked about how General Pershing wanted the AEF monuments in certain places to have people remember what his soldiers did in these locations. She also discussed that this monument was supposed to be in Saint Mihiel, but the General felt Butte Montsec was a more appropriate site - and more prominent. Pershing didn't want it to be too large though - the original plan was much larger (I have to check on the specifics). Florence also talked about how important the monument is in that area. People have beautiful days down at the lake below the butte, and then come up to see the monument that has been standing in the heights, overlooking their fun and leisure. Their visits to the monument put everything into perspective. Visitors realize how important it is to remember what happened there and the soldiers on all sides, but especially how the Americans and French planned and fought that battle side-by-side to liberate the area. Florence also spoke about the importance of going to the places where history happened – basically, walking in the footsteps of history. I really like Florence – she's my new history friend. I love making history friends, especially in a place so special, and so important. It's a trite statement ... but honest and heartfelt. With over 2 million American soldiers serving in Europe during WWI, there are countless stories that emerged from the conflict. Two of the more famous ones involved Wisconsin born New Yorker Charles Whittlesey and a Tennessee farmer named Alvin York. I was fortunate to walk in the footsteps of both of these men, all within an hour, and reflect on the different outcomes of their heroics - mere miles apart form each other, The details of Charles Whittlesey and the Lost Battalion can be found in many websites, books, and a critically average historical movie of the same name. (Ricky (sorry, I mean Rick) Schroeder starred as Whittlesey.) A young commanding officer, Wellesley and his troops attacked the German lines in the forest for the Meuse Argonne and became detached from communication. They were surrounded by Germans for five days, refused to surrender, suffered shelling from their won artillery, and lost many men in the process. They were able to use a messenger pigeon, Cher Ami, to relay their status at one point. They were finally able to meet up with their comrades after those five days. Of the over 500 men that entered the woods, only 194 came out - the rest lost their lives or were captured. While Whittlesley was commended for his leadership (receiving the Medal of Honor and serving as a pallbearer for the Unknown Soldier), the story takes a turn for the worse. Unable to live with the memory of what happened, he took his own life in 1921 - the tragedy of heroism. The story has always stuck me, partly because of Whittlesley's youth , partly because of the drama of the battalion, and partly because of the sorrowful ending. While it's not marked very well, I was able to visit the pocket where they fought for part of their saga. It was an intense experience to make my way down in a forested incline to stand in the same spot where they fought off German aggressors. Being all alone, I felt their detachment .. but my car was just at the top of the woods. The experience gave me new appreciation for their tragedy ... and a desire to learn more a out their story. Alvin York was probably the single greatest hero to come out of World War I. In a meadow and forest outside of Chatel-Chehery, York almost single-handedly stopped a German attack, and captured 132 German prisoners. His story has been told countless times, and he was made famous in the eponymous movie starring Gary Cooper. To follow in his footsteps, one just has to traverse the Sgt. York Trail, which offers a 3 km walking tour of York's heroics. It turned out to be my first workout of the day, and I was happy that I grabbed some hiking shoes prior to leaving Wisconsin. The trail tells York's story, including how he put his turkey shooting skills to use and taking down five approaching Germans . It's a story I've heard and read many times, but it's always great to be at the actual location of the hero of World War I. The story of the trail itself is fantastic as well, as it resulted from the tireless efforts of a few amateur historians and some Eagle Scouts. York came back to Tennessee, started a foundation, to help the people of his home state, served in the CCC, and even attempted to get back into the military. He is still a hero in Tennessee - I saw his statue in Nashville on the grounds of the state capital when I forced my kids to take a little history side tour last year. It all comes together, doesn't it? The dichotomy of the two stories and the ending of the two heroes was forefront in my mind as I traversed the ground that each trod a century ago. What would I do if I was in each of their boots? I ask myself that often when thinking about those that have served ... and I can't provide a clear answer.
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