I visited two major ABMC memorials today – one in the morning all by my lonesome, and one in the afternoon with about 20 other visitors. The results both times were the same – the memorials are tall and located on high ground that was captured by American troops, at a great cost. Each is impressive, glorious, and powerful since they are surrounded by the remnants of war. I could actually stay at them for hours – but my 30 minutes will hold me over. Dedicated in 1937, the Sommepy Memorial is located on Blanc Mont Ridge, which was held by the Germans until the AEF and French drove them out in October or 1918, securing the area and opening the door for a German defeat. The memorial is surrounded by the remnants of trenches, zig-zagging around the heights. I didn’t get to go up to the top since I got there so early, but even so, the altitude of the ridge offers an amazing view of the open farmland battlefield. I snapped a shot of the 42nd Rainbow Division for Brian Markwald (his Grandpa served in the Rainbow in WWII) and for the Wisconsin faithful, and some Badgers served in the Rainbow. In the early sunny morning, there is nothing like visiting. The addition of "I Have a Rendezvous With Death" by Alan Seeger makes the visit all that more powerful. Also dedicated in 1937, the Montfaucon Memorial matches General Pershing's wish of being imposing (wouldn't it be great to see him on the monument?), and it's even more powerful from the top. It's only 234 steps to reach the summit, and worth every ounce of effort to get there. The vies of the Meuse Argonne region is both educational and breathtaking, as you can see the massive size of the front and how many men must have served on both sides in this Allied offensive in the fall of 1918. The monument honors the many divisions that served in the Meuse Argonne, including Wisconsin's 32 Red Arrow Division. The deritus of war surrounds the monument, with German bunkers and trenches remaining near shell craters. The destruction of the war to the local village is also evident, as remnants of Mountfaucon's church stand in rubble, full of pock marks and bullet scars. These monuments are becoming precious artifacts for me, and I should be fortunate to have seen all of the ABMC WWI cemeteries and monuments in France by the end of my trip. While I don't have mementos from each one (Like I do with my son when we do baseball stadium trips), the memory and feeling I experienced at each is the best souvenir. The fact that we have such a physical and visual presence in a land so far away demonstrates that, while war is hell, honoring those that serve is a thing of beauty. That was one of my goals on the trip and what I hope to do with students - understand the horror of war (especially WWI), but the courage and sacrifice of those in the military and supporting the military.
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