Time is important. It is one of the only (if not the only) components of life that humans cannot control (yet). Our tourney baseball team knows the importance of time, with 6:09 being a rallying cry for the WFB Dukes White team over the past two years. But the story of 10:59 may usurp all others in regards to the importance of time - and the power of one minute. 11:00 AM, on the 11th day of the 11th month in 1918. The time was set for an end to the most brutal and vicious war of all time to date, bringing a close to four years of fighting and millions of dead soldiers. The military on both sides actually continued fighting until the very last minute. Near the armistice time, an American soldier jumped up in charge an enemy machine gunner, possibly to restore some lost honor, or possibly to fire one last shot. A minute later, the guns fell silent, soldiers on both sides cheered, and the war ended. Henry Gunther did not get to see that celebration. At 10:59 AM on November 11, 1918, he was shot and killed – the last American soldier to die in World War I. It's really an amazing and sad story, and one that I have read about and listened to a few times. But when I read Rick Rubin's Back Over There and found out that he visited the location of Gunther's death, I put it on my itinerary. Rubin and Mark Van Ells both commented on the challenges of locating the marker for Gunther's death. I figured that, since I'm part bloodhound, I'd be able to find it without much of an issue. There had to be signs, and it could be too far off the beaten path. Per usual, I was wrong, but that made my 45 minutes adventure much more rewarding. After driving into Chaumont-devant-Damvillers in the Meuse Argonne region and seeing no signs, I asked a nice local lady she knew anything about an American soldiers memorial. She told me to go up this road and turn this way and then that way. I thought she meant to go right, but she probably meant for me to go left – but I went anyway. After walking a few kilometers along a couple of dirt farm roads that are only drivable by tractor, I almost gave up. Then, I remembered the story, remembered something about him charging up a hill, remembered seeing a picture of the memorial on what looked like a crest. So, I looked up at the top of the huge ridge and saw a white pole standing up in a place where it shouldn't be. While there was no flag on it, I figured I'd give it one more chance - so up the hill I went. (I told myself it would be my second exercise for the day after the Sgt. York Trail.) After huffing and puffing up a steep plowed field with no one there to help with an AED, I neared the crest and saw that, below this white pole, was indeed a historical marker, leading to a combined euphoria of accomplishment and relief. I stood there for a while to take it all in – standing on the spot where the last of the 50,000+ Americans died in battle, looking over the vast and beautiful Meuse Argonne area, and feeling a little bit incredulous and almost questioning my sanity for being in the middle of basically nowhere in France, all merged to make it a moment that I will always remember. Plus, I was able to take a couple pictures of it by propping up my camera and some rocks – I'm not a big fan of historical selfies, but I had to do it. As I trod back down the dried out plowed field, I wondered if this was the actual path of Henry Gunther's last moments and what it would be like to do this in battle. Thankfully, I'll never have to know that. The stories of the soldiers help me realize that freedom is not free, and I am forever appreciative of their sacrifice, both living and gone.
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The legendary Dave Burgess compels teachers to develop lessons that kids want to experience even if they didn't have to - "tickets" lessons, or ones that you could actually have students pay to come experience. One of mine has always been The AEF Over There, when students "experience" life in the trenches. Within 16 hours, I think I made the lesson a bestseller, because I got to actually walk in the footsteps of history and go into two separate WWI trenches - Bois d"Ailly and Saint Baussant - truly walking in the footsteps of history. I don't think the pictures will do it justice, and I try to give a sense of what was like some video, but you really have to be there. This experience gives me a greater understanding of an appreciation for what happened in these trenches and how deadly they were, and I think it gives me street cred about speaking about the trenches – actually, we can call it trench cred.
You learn in the books that the trenches are all zigzag – but it's definitely true when you actually see them in real life. It's incredible how fortified the German trenches were, considering the location. Where did they get all of the cement? (That's a good google question). In this area, the St. Mihiel salient, they were in control for four years. I'm not sure if the locations were as forested as they are now, but if they were, I'm sure those trees were blown to bits and have since had new growth. Relic hunters have been all around these tenches, but I was pretty fortunate to find some some original barbed wire, It's an extremely symbolic artifact considering the Great War and will have a prominent place in my classroom – if I can get it through airport security. I visited two major ABMC memorials today – one in the morning all by my lonesome, and one in the afternoon with about 20 other visitors. The results both times were the same – the memorials are tall and located on high ground that was captured by American troops, at a great cost. Each is impressive, glorious, and powerful since they are surrounded by the remnants of war. I could actually stay at them for hours – but my 30 minutes will hold me over. Dedicated in 1937, the Sommepy Memorial is located on Blanc Mont Ridge, which was held by the Germans until the AEF and French drove them out in October or 1918, securing the area and opening the door for a German defeat. The memorial is surrounded by the remnants of trenches, zig-zagging around the heights. I didn’t get to go up to the top since I got there so early, but even so, the altitude of the ridge offers an amazing view of the open farmland battlefield. I snapped a shot of the 42nd Rainbow Division for Brian Markwald (his Grandpa served in the Rainbow in WWII) and for the Wisconsin faithful, and some Badgers served in the Rainbow. In the early sunny morning, there is nothing like visiting. The addition of "I Have a Rendezvous With Death" by Alan Seeger makes the visit all that more powerful. Also dedicated in 1937, the Montfaucon Memorial matches General Pershing's wish of being imposing (wouldn't it be great to see him on the monument?), and it's even more powerful from the top. It's only 234 steps to reach the summit, and worth every ounce of effort to get there. The vies of the Meuse Argonne region is both educational and breathtaking, as you can see the massive size of the front and how many men must have served on both sides in this Allied offensive in the fall of 1918. The monument honors the many divisions that served in the Meuse Argonne, including Wisconsin's 32 Red Arrow Division. The deritus of war surrounds the monument, with German bunkers and trenches remaining near shell craters. The destruction of the war to the local village is also evident, as remnants of Mountfaucon's church stand in rubble, full of pock marks and bullet scars. These monuments are becoming precious artifacts for me, and I should be fortunate to have seen all of the ABMC WWI cemeteries and monuments in France by the end of my trip. While I don't have mementos from each one (Like I do with my son when we do baseball stadium trips), the memory and feeling I experienced at each is the best souvenir. The fact that we have such a physical and visual presence in a land so far away demonstrates that, while war is hell, honoring those that serve is a thing of beauty. That was one of my goals on the trip and what I hope to do with students - understand the horror of war (especially WWI), but the courage and sacrifice of those in the military and supporting the military.
One of the aspects of World War I that often differs from the American Revolution, the Civil War or World War II is the lack of focus on specific battles - especially in both remembering and teaching the conflict. You probably have heard of Lexington and Concord, Bunker Hill, Gettysburg, D-Day, and Iwo Jima - but have you every heard of Cantigny? Although I've never focused on specific battles in the 20 years that I've taught World War I, I've always been interested in each, especially Cantigny. Cantigny has been at the forefront of my planning ever since I received a grant. I've always known about the battle because of the museum and golf course in Wheaton, hometown of my best man in my wedding. I've been to the First Division Museum there, and found that connection between Col. McCormick of the Chicago Tribune fame and the battle. I also listened to a few podcasts and read most of Matthew Davenport's book First Over There, which tells the great story of the engagement and discussed both the short-term and far-reaching impact of the AEF's success. Visiting the small village was eye-opening, not only for the battle, but to realize that this tiny little hamlet way off the beaten path was the site of America's first victory in World War I. If you blink while you're driving through the village, you'll miss it, and you will also miss the awesome memorials to the AEF troops that defeated the Germans. There is a monument for Colonel McCormick, and also a Doughboy statue to represent the First Division - The Big Red One. The Cantigny ABMC monument stands prominently in the middle of the village, overlooking the valley below and showing the importance of the high ground of the village. The 100+ inhabitants of the village will always remember the success of the AEF - they can look at the names of the two major roads in the town as a reminder. If you are looking for one battle that you can wrap your hands around in the Great War, it may be this one. Heroism abounded, and the AEF showed the Allied leaders that they can and will fight - the German army learned that as well. I am excited to go back to the First Division Museum to see their improvements and innovations - it's worth the jaunt to Wheaton! Side note - my best man, Andy/Skrunt, was born on May 28. Cantigny happened on May 28. Spooky.
No pun intended – I was blown away by the Canadian National Memorial at Vimy in France. With an amazing memorial with quite possibly the most beautiful setting I have ever seen, a fantastic visitor center, landscape that demonstrates the power of the great war, and an incredible experience walking through actual trenches and tunnels, this may be one of the most powerful historical places I have ever visited.
The massive memorial is perched on the top of Vimy Ridge, the location of a Canadian battle in 1917. Over 80 years old, it is immense, incredibly symbolic, and one of the most picturesque memorials I have seen. I first caught a glimpse of it driving into our Arras the previous night and was struck how it almost erupts out of a hill in the countryside. After finding out more about the symbolism at the visitor center, I was impressed even more about the service of Canadians in the Great War and their county’s commitment to remembering and honoring them. The memorial is surrounded by the battlefield, covered with shell holes and craters and still full of unexploded ordinance. It adds and additional component of both beauty and fear to the experience. Plus, it's amazing to visit when nobody else is there in the morning – except a flock of sheep.
The visitor center at Vimy is brand-new, opening in April of this year for the 100th anniversary of the Canadians success at the ridge. The visitor center has some beautiful imagery, great audio of primary sources from Canadian military personnel, and awesome college students from Canada running the show. The real historical treat is outside the visitor center, where the actual trenches of the battle have been restored, providing a major highlight of my trip and a bonus for my students. The trenches have been fortified with cement sand bags and gravel duckboards , so there's definitely some more permanence than what the Canadians experienced a century ago – even though the built them over a period of months in 1916. Navigating the trenches while being surrounded by actual craters left from the battle is almost indescribable for a history nerd. To top it off, Vimy has a series of tunnels that were used to transport materials and in some cases troops from different trench lines. My guided tour of these tunnels was about as cool of an experience I will have on the Western front. I knew very little about the tunnel systems, and to walk through them is truly walking in the footsteps of history – those are actually the words that my guide Lauren used, and I had to smile.
I didn't want to leave Vimy that morning – in fact, I'm sad to think that I will never probably visit this incredible historical treasure again. If I were suggesting an immersive and powerful World War I site on the Western front, the Canadian National Park would be at the top of my list. I can go back virtually - you can too! On Christmas Day, 1914, British and German troops laid down their weapons for one sunrise to sunset and conducted what has become known as the Christmas Truce. There are many different tales told about the event, and I am fascinated about the power of the human spirit in the cold, dank pits of the trenches that December day. It makes me wonder – why didn’t they just keep the truce going? (Superior officers' orders, that’s why).
One of the cool stories? Football – the European version that many of my family and friends love so much (this means you Charlie, Rick, Brian, Jake, Eli, Joe B, and many more). While there was no official game played between the two sides, they did have a few “kick abouts” – immortalized with a small memorial in the middle of a farm off a side road south of Ypres. The small memorial of a football on a exploded shell connecting two trenches has additional material left behind by visitors from all over. There’s the power of sports for you. Maybe the World Cup can be the great unifier in the world today?
I'm a big fan of ceremony, especially when it involves honoring the military and people who have served their county. That's why the wreath laying at the Tomb of the Unknowns is always my favorite part of our Washington DC trip. As I was doing my research for the trip, I read a lot about The Last Post at the Menin Gate in Ypres, and I knew I needed to make time to watch the ceremony first hand. The Last Post Association holds a beautiful ceremony every evening at 8:00 PM, rain or shine, at which buglers play and wreaths are laid. By my estimate, there were about 1,000 people in attendance on a Wednesday evening, and a few people I spoke with came to Ypres just for the ceremony. (VIDEO COMING SOON)
While the ceremony itself is solemn, touching, and honorable, the actual Menin Gate dominated my experience. This massive structure contains the names of over 54,000 commonwealth soldiers missing from the fighting the Ypres salient during the war – yes, missing. There are so many names that they actually had to make an additional memorial in a nearby cemetery for 30,000 plus names. The number is staggering, especially when they are divided into their homelands and specific divisions, etched in stone for eternity. It's overwhelming, similar to the names listed on the Vietnam Veterans Memorial. The Menin Gate is a gut punch for anyone, WWI aficionado or not – and is a must see.
I've been to a few museums in my life, especially those dedicated military conflict. There's something about the In Flanders Field Museum in Ypres that sets it apart from others that I've visited. It could be the location, in the Cloth Hall building in the center of town, a massive structure that was mostly destroyed during the Great War. It could be the incredible view from the top of the belfry that I added to my tour for tow euros - probably the best two euros I will spend. It could be the way the museum tells a story with a human perspective, combining text, media, images, and material. It could be the actors the museum uses video to relay a human component of WWI in the Flanders area and the three battles of Ypres. It could be the incredible collection of artifacts the museum displays displaying, including material recently excavated from forgot trench. Actually ... it's all the above While there is little on American experience in the Great War, the museum filled in a lot of gaps about the conflict in Belgium and brought home the distraction that happened to the towns on the Western front. Using a series of aerial photographs from hundred years ago and today, making comparisons with transparencies show just how brutal the war was to civilian areas. It was much more than war in the trenches in the countryside. One of the most innovative components of the museum was that visitors wear bracelet designed with a poppy. After registering with your name, home, and age, you can check in throughout the tour to get some personalized information through primary sources. For example. near the end of the exhibits what American involvement had occurred, I was presented with the words of an American nurse. You can also get all your interactions email to you or send your smart phone - yay, technology! There are so many museums to see in the Western Front, and while I will go to a few, there is no way anyone can get to them all. I'm glad that I came to this one, especially after what I saw following my visit. That's my next post - The Last Post. |
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