The AEF predominately served in France on Western front, but a few divisions had a definite impact in Belgium. Searching for the commemoration of this impact filled my afternoon as a spent a few hours visiting the only American cemetery in Belgium and a couple of American monuments. The American cemetery at Flanders Field is, in word, humbling (and I'm sure the ones that I will see the rest of the week in France will be as well). The cemetery is smaller than others I will see and a bit off the beaten path of other World War I sites. That may be why I was one of only a handful of people there. The visitor center does a fantastic job talking about the American support of the spring offensive in 1918 and their success in liberating parts of Belgium from German control, including the land of the cemetery. The center also does a great job reinforcing the courage and sacrifice of American soldiers and the importance of honoring them and remembering there service. There are 368 gave sites, including a few from Wisconsin and multiple unknown soldiers. The buried are mostly from the 27th and 30th Divisions, troops assigned to the Belgian army in 1918. Serving as the center point of the cemetery, an impressive chapel commemorates the 43 missing soldiers that lost theirs in the area. The entire cemetery is immaculate in upkeep, with beautiful flowers in secluded niches for reflection. The highlight of my visit was been able to witness a military ceremony, led by active duty military stationed in Brussels. Members of the VFW post in Paris presented a wreath at the chapel, followed by the playing of Taps. Besides the participants and the caretakers of the cemetery, I was the only witness to this beautiful event. It was very memorable to see a ceremony that I have witnessed so many times at home, so far away from home - yet still on American soil. American forces are also commemorated by two memorials in the Flanders area. They are definitely out-of-the-way (and didn't even show up on my car GPS), so it took some time . In the small town of Audenarde, American troops are remembered by a large monument near a car park (European lingo). The other, the Kemmel American Memorial, is on a side road just south of Ypres, surrounded by agricultural land. The memorials reminded me that Americans served in pasture land and small towns, similar to a weekend drive in Wisconsin. Their efforts in a different continent have been commemorated with honor.
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Landing in Brussels gave me the opportunity to get my sea legs (land legs) after an overnight flight and also check out the beautiful capital of Belgium. I spent four hours meandering through the city, enjoying the how it is both big and small, new and old. The beautiful boulevards and outdoor seating areas for restaurants of every type hosted countless people out and about on aTuesday night. It was easy to get lost, but then all I needed was a map because there is some sort of landmark around every corner. Of course, I was looking for those that involved Brussels and the Great War. No American markers here, but still it was well worth the walk. Belgium and Brussels' WWI history is heavily chronicled, and I read a few resources before taking off on foot. Belgium was the home of the start of the war in Western Europe, and the German Schlieffen Plan called for an attack on France through Belgium and Luxembourg. The Germans occupied the country throughout the entire war, and it is hard to imagine the beautiful old city controlled by the of invading troops. The Grand Place was a beautiful spot where I had a tasty meal – but 100 years ago, it was under control of the Kaiser. There are many place names and streets and honor the people in Brussels - too many to find. I located a few of the memorials to the Belgian forces that defended the country in WWI and WWII. I also had to find a very unique memorial - maybe the only one I will see that is dedicated to soldiers and animals. Messenger pigeons played an important role in the Great War, often being the only form of communication used in the field during open warfare. The Belgian Pigeon Soldier Memorial is dedicated to the soldiers and the pigeons that served in the war. There are a lot of pigeons still in Brussels, by the way. And, of course - when in Brussels, one must see the Manneken Pis. It was underwhelming ... but cross that one off the list. |
AuthorChuck Taft ArchivesCategories |